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When Chef Thitid “Ton” Tassanakajohn, a celebrated culinary figure from Thailand with Michelin stars and global acclaim, decided to open his first Malaysian restaurant, he chose George Town, Penang—a place he fell in love with during his travels. Housed in a 150-year-old heritage building, Sood by Chef Ton blends history with modern Thai cuisine, offering a dining experience that’s equal parts vibrant and sophisticated.
The restaurant’s exterior is minimalist and classy, but stepping inside reveals a bold palette of red and dark blue, reflecting the restaurant’s focus on fun dining rather than formal fine dining.
Adding to its unique charm is Nari, a 7-foot-tall golden statue anchoring the space with an air of playful opulence.
The Dining Experience
The menu features small bites, savoury plates, and sharing dishes, each showcasing Chef Ton’s innovative take on Thai flavours.
Small Bites
The Thang Mo Pla Hang Caviar (Watermelon Fish Powder Caviar) looked stunning, served on a beautifully iced plate. Comprising dried fish, caviar, tomato jelly, and watermelon jelly, the dish unfortunately didn’t deliver as much in taste. The frozen components muted the flavours, even after allowing some time to defrost.
The Khao Gee Larb Goong (Thai Tacos Larb Grilled Prawn) was a better hit. The soft taco paired well with the sauce-laden grilled prawns, offering a familiar yet elevated Thai flavour profile.
Savoury Plates
The Botan Ebi Chae Nahm Pla (Botan Ebi Marinated With Fish Sauce) was a standout. The raw ebi, creamy and fatty, paired beautifully with a unique sauce of lime juice and Thai herbs, delivering a balanced hint of spice. This was easily a favourite of the night.
The Pla Muek Yang Sao Wa Rod Sauce (Grilled Squid with Passion Fruit Sauce) featured well-cooked squid with a sweet and tangy passion fruit sauce. However, the portion size, especially for a half portion, felt underwhelming.
The Tom Kha Pla Hed Yang (Galangal Soup Fish with Grilled Mushroom) was another highlight. The red snapper, creamy yet not overpowering, came with perfectly seared, crispy skin. Mushrooms beneath the fish added a slightly earthy depth to the dish, making it a delight to savour.
Sharing Plates
The Goong Mae Nahm Yang Nahm Pla Wan (Grilled River Prawn with Sweet Fish Sauce) was impeccable. The prawn was cooked to perfection, paired with a lightly dressed kacang botol salad and a soft-cooked egg. This dish exemplified the balance of sweetness and savoury tones that Chef Ton is known for.
The Massaman Gae (Massaman Curry Lamb) featured a medium-rare lamb rack served with sweet potato. While the lamb was cooked well, the massaman sauce leaned too creamy for my taste.
Dessert
The meal ended on a high note with the Khao Neaw Ma Muang Parfait (Mango Sticky Rice Parfait). A playful take on the classic dessert, it was light, refreshing, and well-executed, with pandan ice cream and mango providing the perfect finale.
Drinks and Service
As the SO-OD Bar on the first floor is set to open on 22 January 2025, drinks were served off-menu. While intriguing, the lack of a proper drinks menu was noticeable.
Additionally, the wait for food was longer than expected, and other diners appeared to experience similar delays. It’s worth noting that the establishment is still relatively new, which could explain the teething issues with service.
Sood by Chef Ton is a pleasant celebration of Penang’s rich heritage paired with bold, modern Thai flavours.
While some dishes, like the Watermelon Fish Powder Caviar, fell short, highlights such as the Botan Ebi Marinated With Fish Sauce and the Grilled River Prawn made the visit worthwhile.
With its striking interior, Chef Ton’s signature innovation, and a space designed for fun dining, Sood has the potential to become a culinary hotspot in Penang. The opening of SO-OD Bar will undoubtedly add to the vibrant experience.
If you visit, make sure to try the Botan Ebi, Tom Kha Pla Hed Yang, Grilled River Prawn, and Mango Sticky Rice Parfait.
While there’s room for improvement in service and portion sizes, Sood by Chef Ton delivers on its promise of bold flavours and a memorable dining experience.
For reservations, give Sood by Chef Ton a call or WhatsApp here.
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Sood by Chef Ton Brings Bold Thai Flavours To Penang’s Heritage Scene [Review]
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